Stripes: Half & Half

The first striping pattern I devised was to do (2 rows of color A, 2 rows of color B) repeated.  I used this color pattern extensively in making baby blankets.  See baby blankets made from Stitch 1, Stitch 3, Stitch 4, Stitch 5, Stitch 7, Stitch 8, Stitch 11,Stitch 12, Stitch 14, Stitch 16, and Stitch 26 to see the finished look of this color pattern. 

So, here's how to do this:
Chain with color A, then work 2 rows of pattern with Color A.  At the last stitch of row 2, tie on color B, but do not cut color A.

Pull both color A and color B through the loops to complete the stitch.

Then chain with color A and color B together.

Release color A, and work rows 3 and 4 with color B.

Again, use both colors for the last stitch of row 4, and chain with both colors.  Then release color B and work the next two rows with color A.

The extra color is always carried up the same side of the work.  This may look a little odd, but it is covered up when you add a border.  Notice that one side looks normal and the other side has both colors chained up the side.  Pictures show before and after addition of a border.

If you want to make this dishcloth, here's the pattern:
Chain 28
Row 1: dc in 4th chain from hook, dc across
Row 2-14: ch 3, turn, dc across
Border:
Round 1: sc around (3 sc in corner)
Round 2: sc around (3 sc in corner)

Rows 1-2, 5-6, 9-10, 13-14 are in the red color.
Rows 3-4, 7-8, 11-12 are in the yellow color.

As I was making this I was struck by how Gryffindor it looked.  If you want to make something cotton in Gryffindor colors, these are the ones to use.

I made this using Sugar and Cream Country Yellow and Wine with a J hook.

Carrying Colors

You may have noticed that many of my projects have lots of thin stripes of color.  Using the normal method of changing colors, where you cut the yarn at the end of each stripe and tie on the new color, strings would be everywhere.  I don't know anyone who enjoys weaving in the ends of a crochet project.  So, a method of carrying colors makes doing stripes more practical.  You can simply pull the color up the sides along the starting chain of each row and the last stitch.  Doing this minimizes the number of loose strings to work in.  This helps to keep your project neat and vastly reduces the amount of work you have to do after washing it when all the strings that can come out, do come out.  There are several striping patterns that can be made this way.  My next few posts will be devoted to these color patterns.

Book in Review

So, it has been a long journey through the book and I've tried 30 new stitches.  Hopefully, my comments on the stitches have been helpful, letting you get a better feel for the stitches.  Now that I have completed a baby blanket from each stitch, I can emphatically say that this book is worth buying, owning, and using.  Although not every stitch is one I want to reuse, there are many that I do.  My favorite stitches are 1 and 13. 

This book can be found at most craft stores.  Hobby Lobby in particular tends to put it on clearance with some regularity.  Whenever I see it on clearance, I buy it because I like to give it to my crocheting friends because I know it's great.  If you can't find it on clearance, Joanns routinely puts their pattern books on 30% off sale.  I know that coupons work on it at A.C. Moore, but not at Michaels.  I have not attempted to purchase pattern books with coupons elsewhere.  See my Coupon Guide on how to obtain coupons. 

Here's a quick overview of the book.
Stitch  1: Awesome checker pattern and would be great for any sized project.
Stitch  2: Elegant simplicity.  It's kinda lacy and works for any sized project.
Stitch  3: Very solid stitch, slight ripple.  Need lots of rows to keep it from twisting up.
Stitch  4: My go-to ripple pattern.  Nice squared off edges.  Great for any sized project.
Stitch  5: Thick fabric; kinda slow, great for dishcloths.
Stitch  6: Pretty hexagons, little bit lacy.  Great for any sized project.
Stitch  7: Light cabling, kinda tedious. I don't plan to reuse it.
Stitch  8: Modified shell stitch.  Quick and easy; works for any sized project.
Stitch  9: To this day I detest this stitch.  If you like the look, try stitch 24.
Stitch 10: Pretty and lacy.  Works for large projects.
Stitch 11: Very lacy with large holes.  I don't plan to reuse it.
Stitch 12: Lacy, complicated pattern.  Works for larger projects.
Stitch 13: Surprisingly wonderful, lacy cabled look.  Great for any sized project.
Stitch 14: Lacy and complicated; kinda stretchy.  I don't plan to reuse it.
Stitch 15: Disorganized look, but so simple.  Works for any sized project.
Stitch 16: Checkered look, nice and simple.  Works for any sized project.
Stitch 17: Very solid stitch.  Need to have lots of rows to keep it from twisting up.
Stitch 18: Lacy stitch.  Cross and puff stitches.  Works for any sized project.
Stitch 19: Simple lace stitch.  Easily modified.  Works for any sized project.
Stitch 20: Changing width stripes.  Attention required. I don't plan to reuse it.
Stitch 21: Masculine stitch.  Solid, quick, and easy.  Works for any sized project.
Stitch 22: Medallions, quick and easy.  Works for any sized project.
Stitch 23: Subtly elegant stitch. Diagonal hexagons.  Great for larger projects.
Stitch 24: Better version of stitch 9.  Slow and simple.  I don't plan to reuse it.
Stitch 25: Solid triangles. Need to have lots of rows to keep it from twisting up.
Stitch 26:  Very slow, complicated and difficult.  Textured.  I don't plan to reuse it.
Stitch 27: Complicated lace pattern.  Good for large projects.
Stitch 28: Modified shell stitch.  So very quick and easy.  Great for any sized project.
Stitch 29: Modified shell stitch and grid.  Fairly easy.  Works for any sized project.
Stitch 30: Puffy lace stitch.  Fairly easy to do.  Works for larger projects.